Record number GP67         Identification           Simple name gansey pattern         Full name chevrons & Betty Martin & vertical & indigenous         Other name Buster Long's chevron and Betty Martin gansey         Classified name 4.151.721             System SHIC         Brief description Gansey pattern, Buster Long's chevron and Betty Martin gansey, Sheringham about 1900         Association           Nature wearer         Person fisherman : Long, Buster         Place & Sheringham & Norfolk         Activity fishing         Date 1900 = 1905 (c)         Note Buster's wife wears voluminous sleeves and a high lace collar, possibly black, suggesting late Victorian dress         Production           Method hand knitted         Person knitter :         Date 1900 (c)         Place & Sheringham & Norfolk         Technical data 12 spi, 17 rpi             Note3 tension         Note The tension is deduced from chart and the number of pattern repeats. Nine repeats of the Betty Martin motif (6); 8 repeats of the chevron panel (24). Chest therefore is 496 stitches, including false seams, which is 41.3 inches. Yoke height is 29 repeats of the chevrons, which is 232 rows, which is exactly 13.6 inches         Preproduction           Simple name photograph         Full name digital copy       LY274-A.jpg         Note Tim Groves collection. Olive Edis photograph?         Research           Result pattern chart         Person charted by : Warren, Martin         Person swatches knitted by : Smith, Val         Date 18.3.2020 = 2.4.2023         Documentation           Photography           Type pattern chart       GP67.jpg         Reproduction           Type sampler         Corporate body for : Sheringham Museum         Person knitted by : Smith, Val         Dimensions 20 x 20 cm         Date requested 2.4.2023         Documentation group           Class pattern chart         Reference number GP67_chart.pdf         Documentation group           Documentation           Link shering.html         Recorder Warren, Martin : 8.9.2022         Recorder Warren, Martin : 13.2.2022         Recorder Warren, Martin : 14.10.2020         Notes Of all the patterns we have worked on, this has been the hardest to decipher, requiring eighteen versions of the chart and almost as many swatches as we refined our ideas. With only one low resolution digital photograph to work with, it was impossible to count individual stitches. Fortunately the Betty Martin could be recognised as the same as that used in Buster's other gansey, GP27. It has a width of six stitches and a repeat of 4 rows in height and this provided a very useful yardstick to guage the rest of the pattern by. The sticking point, apart from getting the scale right, was the breaking up of the chevrons into blocks. We finally recognised that we were looking at the wrong side, as the column of single purl stitches on the reverse of one of the swatches provided the faint shadow we observed in the photograph. This has happened before (e.g. GP39)         Notes Despite the seemingly impossible photograph we have created a chart with a degree of confidence by using proportions, ratios, measurement and calculation rather than counting stitches directly. The final resulting swatch both looks right compared to the photograph and the stitch count provides exactly the measurements you would expect for the man, Buster Long.         Notes           Admin status           Status2 provisional         Date 1.4.2023